Stone's paramount-cutter; a system for cutting garments, based upon scientific principles, including the self-varying shoulder, in connection with the division of the breast-measure by Stone Charles John

Author:Stone, Charles John. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: Chicago, Meyer & brother
Published: 1887-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 8.

HOW TO CUT A VEST.

The vest is cut the same as the coat, only making the armscye larger. The divisions are marked on the draft. Cut the vest the same as the coat, adding to breast 2 inches, and draw square line down to B. This draft is laid down 36 breast and 34 waist, 2 inches more around the waist then what is called proportion. When waist measure is smaller, then 2 inches less than the breast measure, take off '4 of an inch at B, for every inch that the waist is less that 2 inches of the breast, and add to front at B, '4 of an inch for every inch that the waist gains on the breast. Take a man that measures 38 B, and 38 W, add '^ inch to front at B. If 38 breast, and 40 waist, add i inch at B. Cut the front same as fat man's coat, adding on to hollow of chest, and take out under arm. Shape as represented in draft.

For a Double Breasted Vest, add to front 114 inch only, making centre line, then add all the lap you want. Use upper and lower shoulder measure on the vest, the same as on the coat. As all the |)oints are laid out the same as in the coat draft, you will have no trouble in applying the shoulder measures on the vest, the same as on the coat: Cut the vest 3 k of an inch lower in the neck than the coat. In cutting a vest without a collar, add Yz inch at neck of forepart, and for a vest with a collar, follow the back in shaping the neck, the same as on a coat.

PRACTICAL REMARKS ON VEST CUITING.

Now in my practice I cut all vests, collar or no collar, the same as shown in the diagram. When I want a collar on the vest, I cut the silicia collar the shape that I want the collar to be, and sew it on to the edge of the vest, and not press the seam open. This will cut a better collar than the old style. As there is no seam to show through the collar when pressing the. vest, however, this has nothing to do with the fit of the vest, I merely mention it as I find it an improvement on the old style.

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